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The Desert Road. |
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At Pete's Camp. San Felipe. |
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Dawn beside the Sea of Cortez, Baja California. |
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Digging in the sand at low-tide for the hot springs just south of San Felipe. |
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The pool at Reuben's Camp. |
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Deserted and derelict RV park south of San Felipe. |
____ From Puerto Penasco we took Highway 30 along the coast
where the Gran Desierto joined the Sea of Cortez and sand dunes stretched
across the road. Heading west to cross the Colorado River on Highway 4 between Coaluila
and Ledon; although it was easy to mistake the Grand Canyon’s water source for
an average size irrigation canal, such is the volume of water extraction in the
area. It was here that we encountered our first military checkpoint; conscripts
of the Mexican army needed a guided tour of the Mack and I muddled through with
some half-forgotten Spanish. It was a long wait in line but a relaxed
examination from a young bunch of guys just doing their job. The other aspect
of driving in Mexico that revealed it’s self on the road to San Felipe was the
“Road-Hump.” Definitely not to be ignored and taken at speed. These were
plentiful; some official speed control devices and some local improvisations
that were intended to attract trade to nearby enterprises along with home-made
Stop-signs.
____ We turned on to Highway 5, south of Mexicali and headed
for Pete’s camp on the northern outskirts of San Felipe. A good four-lane coast
road on the opposite side of the gulf; running through desert country within
view of the water. Pete’s is down a well sign-posted dusty track but has the
air of a prosperous resort; not so much camping but more villas and holiday
homes. Just a handful of RVs; lined-up with the palapas on the beach. The place
has a restaurant/bar, good toilets and showers; overall very clean and tidy but
once again we felt like it was out of season. During our two day stay, we had
long walks on the beach and met Ross from British Columbia. The old guy
reckoned he had a Mack motor-home too and pictures on his phone proved that two
years ago he brought it down to Pete’s Camp. We had several long chats about
old school trucking and I think he wished he had his 1955 LT Mack with him this
year instead of his 45 foot diesel-pushing motor-coach.
____ From Pete’s Camp, we moved to the south of San Felipe and
Rueben’s Camp; like chalk and cheese. From opulence to an RV park post-Zombie
Apocalypse. Rueben’s had once been high-end camping and a huge capital
investment but now was being re-claimed by the desert. Dereliction everywhere
with the attraction of “Hot Springs” as the only plus point. Hot water bubbled
through the sand at low-tide and with some digging, one could have one’s own
hot-tub right on the beach. Due to rain, we just dug a foot-spa; stood around
getting wet and put it down to experience. We did some fishing from the rocks
but caught nothing and the two nights at Rueben’s wasn’t a good or bad
experience just different. Rueben is a nice guy and I think I would have given
twenty dollars even if he said the camping was free. Loaded-up with water and
supplies, we headed South from San Felipe still searching for that special Baja
California experience.
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