Day 9: BC Ferries’ Northern Adventure arrived at 6 o’clock in the morning, disgorging vehicles into the darkness. With no idea what was possible, I headed for a Rec Site, threw up the tent and got another couple of hours shut-eye.
The Haida Gwaii Heritage Museum was a good first call. The interesting history was littered with familiar disasters. Alcohol, firearms, smallpox and residential schools had all reeked havoc with a people who only got their land back in 2006. The Haida language and culture survives to this day. Wood carving and formline artwork giving the islands a unique signature.Five thousand people, 140 kilometres of paved road, sprawling villages and the atmosphere of out-of-season seaside town. I headed North. Agate Beach Provincial Park, thirty klicks of dirt road east of Masset. Awesome wild stretch of coast and sheltered pad to pitch the tent; $18 a night.
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